Filippo Mazzei: American Patriot

Filippo Mazzei was an Italian physician, promoter of liberty, and – many argue – an American Patriot. He was a close friend of Thomas Jefferson and acted as an agent to purchase arms for Virginia during the American Revolutionary War.

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Mazzei and The Declaration of Independence

The quotation “All men are created equal” has been called an immortal declaration and perhaps the single phrase of the United States Revolutionary period with the greatest continuing importance.  Thomas Jefferson first used the phrase in the Declaration of Independence as a rebuttal to the going political theory of the day: the Divine Right of Kings.   It was thereafter quoted or incorporated into speeches by a wide array of substantial figures in American political and social life.

Historians believe Thomas Jefferson borrowed the expression from his Italian friend and neighbor.  In 1774, Filippo Mazzei wrote this for The Virginia Gazette:

“Tutti gli uomini sono per natura egualmente liberi e indipendenti. Quest’ eguaglianza è necessaria per costituire un governo libero. Bisogna che ognuno sia uguale all’altro nel diritto naturale.”

Translated by a friend and neighbor of Mazzei, it was published as follows:

“All men are by nature equally free and independent.  Such equality is necessary in order to create a free government.  All men must be equal to each other in natural law.”

In his book, A Nation of Immigrants, John F. Kennedy wrote:

“The great doctrine ‘All men are created equal’ incorporated into the Declaration of Independence by Thomas Jefferson, was paraphrased from the writing of Philip Mazzei, an Italian-born patriot and pamphleteer, who was a close friend of Jefferson.   A few alleged scholars try to discredit Mazzei as the creator of this statement and idea, saying that “there is no mention of it anywhere until after the Declaration was published”.  This phrase appears in Italian in Mazzei’s own hand, written in Italian, several years prior to the writing of the Declaration of Independence.  Mazzei and Jefferson often exchanged ideas about true liberty and freedom.   No one man can take complete credit for the ideals of American democracy.”

In 1980, the United States Postal Service, in conjunction with its Italian counterpart, issued stamps commemorating the 280th anniversary of Mazzei’s birth.

On September 12, 1984, Congressman Mario Biaggi entered an appreciation of Mazzei into the Congressional Record.   The essay was written by Sister Margherita Marchione, a history professor at Fairleigh Dickinson University.

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Filippo Mazzei’s Life

Filippo Mazzei was born in Poggio a Caiano in Tuscany.   He studied medicine in Florence and practiced it in Italy and the Middle East for several years before moving to London in 1755 to take up a career as a merchant.  While in London he met the Americans Benjamin Franklin and Thomas Adams of Virginia, who persuaded him to undertake his next venture.

In 1773 Filippo Mazzei led a group of Italians who came to Virginia to introduce the cultivation of vineyards, olives, and other Mediterranean fruits. He became a neighbor and friend of Thomas Jefferson, and the two of them began what became the first commercial vineyard in the Commonwealth of Virginia.

Jefferson asked Mazzei to plant a vineyard at his estate in Monticello, Virginia.  In a letter to Mazzei dated July 1, 1779, President George Washington wrote, “I thank you for your obliging act of the culture of the wine, and I am happy to hear that your plantation of them is in so prosperous a way.”

Jefferson and Mazzei shared an interest in politics and libertarian values, and maintained an active correspondence for the rest of Mazzei’s life.  Mazzei began to establish his reputation as a patriot by joining the revolutionary war effort. He became a private in the “Independent Company” of Albemarle when the British first landed troops at Hampton.   Jefferson gave him a copy of the “Rough Draught” of the Declaration of Independence, while an excerpt of Mazzei’s “Instructions of the Freeholders of Albemarle County to their Delegates in Convention” was used by Jefferson in his attempt to institute a new state constitution.   Mazzei also signed a petition for Jefferson’s Committee on Religion to abolish spiritual tyranny.   By 1778 it was decided by Jefferson, Patrick Henry, George Mason and others that Mazzei’s efforts would be most useful abroad; he was sent to try to borrow money from the Grand Duke of Tuscany for Virginia and to gather useful political and military information for Governor Jefferson.

After briefly visiting the United States again in 1785, Mazzei travelled throughout Europe promoting Republican ideals.  He wrote a political history of the American Revolution, “Recherches historiques et politiques sur les Etats-Unis de l’Amerique septentrionale”, and published it in Paris in 1788.   As the first history of the American Revolution to be published in French, the book became known as a source about the truth of the American Revolution, a counterweight to British propaganda and French misinformation.

The success of his book led to his appointment as the Polish Chargé de Affaires in Paris.  Mazzei furthered his career by moving to Warsaw to work as an agent for the enlightened King Stanislaus Augustus of Poland.   The King had admired Mazzei’s efforts during the American and French revolutions, and Mazzei eventually helped to reestablish relations between France and Poland.   He remained in Warsaw as the King’s privy councilor until the second division of Poland forced his retirement.   He later spent more time in France and became active in the politics of the French Revolution under the Directorate. When Napoleon overthrew that government Mazzei returned to Pisa, Italy.  He died there in 1816.

After his death the remainder of his family returned to the United States at the urging of Thomas Jefferson.  They settled in Massachusetts and Virginia.  Mazzei’s daughter married the nephew of John Adams.

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The Mazzei Family

The Mazzei Family Tree

The history of the Mazzei family is closely linked not just to the history of winemaking in Tuscany, but to the political and cultural history of the entire region.  The first documents that name the Mazzeis – originally from the winemaking area of Carmignano – date back to the early eleventh century.

The family coat of arms, bearing three wooden hammers, tools emblematic of the cooper’s trade, also dates back to this time. In the fourteenth century, the coat of arms instead displayed three iron maces that still adorn it today.   Since the very beginning, the Mazzeis have been winemakers and active participants in Florentine cultural and commercial life, often times holding important posts in city government.

Ser Lapo Mazzei (1350-1412), a winemaker from Carmignano, dedicated to the art of making fine wine, was a Notary of the Florence city government and Proconsul of the Art of Judges and Notaries.  His brother Lionardo also cultivated vineyards in Carmignano, in the Grignano estate, where he produced wine according to the instructions of his more expert brother, Ser Lapo.

There is an interesting series of correspondence between Ser Lapo Mazzei and Francesco Datini, the famous Merchant of Prato.  The documents are rich in judicial and commercial advice and also contain many comments referring to agronomy and oenology.  Winemaking, purchasing, and storage are recurrent themes in Ser Lapo’s letters:   “Don’t concern yourself about the cost of the wine, though it be high: its goodness is restorative,” he wrote to Datini in 1394, inviting him to overcome his frugality and appreciate its quality.

Ser Lapo Mazzei is also considered the father of the Chianti name.  He authored the first known document using the denomination, a commercial contract bearing his signature, dated December 16, 1398:

“To be paid, on December 16 (1398), 3 florins, 26 soldi and 8 dinars, to Piero di Tino Riccio, for 6 barrels of Chianti wine….the above pay by letter of Ser Lapo Mazzei.”

It is the granddaughter of Ser Lapo Mazzei, Madonna Smeralda, who was married to Piero di Agnolo da Fonterutoli, that the Mazzei family owes the ownership of the Fonterutoli estate, passed down from 1435 until today, across 24 generations.

Brothers Filippo and Francesco (standing) and Lapo (seated) Mazzei

Today, after almost six centuries, the Mazzei family — under the guidance of Lapo, who oversees the property with the help of his sons, Filippo and Francesco, — still devotes itself to winemaking, with a constant commitment, an eye towards innovation, and an abiding respect for the land.

I’ve had the opportunity to get to know Filippo and Francesco and their family, both at Bellavitae and in Tuscany.  Their commitment to quality winemaking and the preservation of their family heritage makes it an honor to call them friends.  The wine from the family’s estates reflects this commitment vintage after vintage.  I urge you to try the wines from these historic vineyards.  And this Independence Day, why not open a bottle and toast to a great American Patriot:  Filippo Mazzei.

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Further Reading:

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Casanova di Neri’s 2006 Brunello di Montalcino: Perfetto!

From the day we opened Bellavitae, Casanova di Neri was one of the most important wineries on our wine list.  We went through cases and cases of Giacomo Neri’s wine, from the Rosso, to White Label, the Tenuta Nuova, Pietradonice, and finally the Cerretalto.  Giacomo was a frequent guest at Bellavitae and our guests loved his wines!

Wine Spectator magazine named the 2001 Tenuta Nuova Brunello di Montalcino the best wine in the world a few years ago.  How can you top that?  With the 2006 vintage, which James Suckling describes:

“a perfect wine with everything in proportion from the ripe fruit and fine tannins to the bright acidity and rich alcohol . . . 100 points.”

Fiesolino farm house on the estate

Click here to watch a quick interview and tasting with James Suckling and Giacomo in his dinning room in Montalcino.  See Giacomo’s emotional response when James tells him the wine is perfection.

Here’s what James Suckling ultimately writes:

“So much ripe fruit here with currants and sultanas, yet fresh and very clean.  Dark berries too.  Incredible ripe Sangiovese character.  Full body, with masses of fruit and chewy tannins.  Plus, there’s black licorice and dried berries.  Give it time to soften.  What a bottle.   Will it ultimately be better than 2001 Tenuta Nuova?  Yes.  Best after 2013”

Jon, Giacomo, and Cristiano toasting the 2001 vintage

I believe that Giacomo has been a successful winemaker because he’s a farmer at heart.  The great wines are first made in the vineyard, not the cellar.  Casanova di Neri isn’t always easy to find, as the vintages usually sell out.  I see that wine.com has the 2005 Tenuta Nuova vintage still in stock.  To purchase, click here.

Complimenti, Giacomo!

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It’s All About Authenticity

Sangiovese grapes at Casanova di Neri

 

Forget about scores.  They’re not the problem

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From Wine Spectator’s Matt Kramer

Authenticity is the transformative force right now.  The best wines made today — the most persuasive wines — come from the regions, the zones and, above all, the producers and consumers where the demand for authenticity is strongest. 

Conversely, many of today’s shallowest, most facile wines are created by winegrowers — and sometimes celebrated by wine critics — who dismiss, disregard or are even contemptuous of authenticity. 

Those who refuse to acknowledge authenticity — either as producers, critics or consumers — are certainly numerous.  But look around:  Are they convincing anyone?  Growers who use reverse osmosis and spinning cones to deconstruct and reconstruct their wines are furtive, not evangelical, while those who pursue authenticity are winning the proverbial hearts and minds and, not least, palates. 

Today’s transformation of fine wine is rooted in authenticity.  Because without a belief in, and an adherence to, authenticity, why bother? 

Read the whole thing. 

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International Wine Challenge Announces 2010 Winners

One of the world’s most prestigious and influential independent wine competitions, the International Wine Challenge (IWC), unveiled the results of the 2010 Trophy and Great Value Wine Awards at the Lords Nursery Pavilion this summer.  Over 100 wines were awarded this year, along with 14 Great Value Wines judged for their style, availability and price.

World-class Italian wines included:

Champion Red Wine:  Castello Romitoro, Brunello Di Montalcino DOCG, Riserva, 2004

Great Value Champion, Sparkling:  Medici Ermete, Lambrusco Reggiano DOC, Concerto, 2009

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Local trophies included:

Amarone Trophy:  Cantine Riondo, Amarone Della Valpolicella Classico DOC, Trionfo, 2006

Edmund Penning Rowsell Trophy, Bolgheri Trophy:  Grattamacco, Bolgheri Superiore DOC, L’Alberello, 2007

Italian Botrytis Trophy:  Moncaro Terre Cortesi, Verdicchio Dei Castelli Di Jesi DOC, Tordiruta, 2006

Italian Red Trophy:  Castello Romitoro, Brunello Di Montalcino DOCG, Riserva, 2004

Italian Sweet Trophy:  Cavit, Vino Santo Trentino DOC, Aréle, 1998

Lambrusco Trophy:  Albinea Canali (Cantine Riunite & Civ), Lambrusco Emilia IGT, Ottocentonero, NV

Marche Red Trophy:  Vico Vicari, Lacrima di Morro D’Alba DOC, Lacrima Del Pozzo Buono, 2008

Soave Trophy:  Pieropan, Soave Classico DOC, La Rocca, 2007

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Six Magical Years

It’s been nearly six years since we signed our lease on Minetta Lane and prepared to open Bellavitae.  Looking back, many of our concepts seem cliché now, but at the time, we were one of the pioneers in New York’s restaurant scene.  Perhaps we were not always the first with these ideas, but Bellavitae undoubtedly influenced the city’s dining experience.  The sincerest form of flattery comes to mind, as many of our original concepts are ubiquitous now, such as:

  • The Chef’s Bar (we called it “the sushi bar” until the day we opened)
  • Cooking in a wood-burning oven (although we never did pizza)
  • Using only seasonal, organic, and local produce whenever possible
  • Dishes prepared for sharing, especially appetizers, in a non-tapas restaurant
  • A high-quality wine selection at every price point

 

When the recession hit in late 2007, we immediately began to change our model to reflect the new business environment (a Wall Street background helped).  I began to wear many more hats than before, and soon I was working well over 14 hours a day – every day.  Over the next two years, we found ourselves in a position where, in order to continue the restaurant in our current space and within negative economic conditions, we would need either to significantly raise our prices or lower our quality – neither of which appealed to me.  So in July of this year, I decided to close our location on Minetta Lane.

Our Amazing Guests

Thousands of people have visited Bellavitae over the years and, of course, scores of relationships now bless our lives.  The remarkable diversity of guests who came to Bellavitae reflected one commonality:  a love of good food and wine in the Italian style, prompting an almost cult following that has been simply magical.

We had the opportunity to develop friendships with many in the food and wine world; and were honored to serve numerous influential individuals, such as:

  • Eric Asimov
  • Dan Barber
  • Joe Bastianich
  • Mario Batali
  • Rose Levy Bernanbaum
  • Vince Calcagno
  • Marco Canora
  • Dana Cowin
  • Andrew Dornenberg
  • Florence Fabricant
  • Barbara Fairchild
  • Carol Field
  • Susan Friedland
  • Antonio Galloni
  • Ina Garten
  • Michael Gelb
  • Joshua Green
  • Dorie Greenspan
  • Amanda Hesser
  • Ray Isle
  • Nancy Jenkins
  • Sarah Jenkins
  • Anna Tasca Lanza
  • Sandra Lee
  • Silvano Marchetto
  • Tom Matthews
  • Jay McInerney
  • Keith McNally
  • Danny Meyer
  • Karen Page
  • Judy Rodgers
  • Regina Schrambling
  • Tom Sietsema
  • Nancy Silverton
  • Beatrice Ughi
  • Gary Vaynerchuk
  • Mary Ellen Ward
  • Alice Waters
  • Patricia Wells
  • Lora Zarubin

 

I’ve never been star struck, but it was always fun to have famous people in the restaurant, many of whom became regulars.  Previously, I respected their privacy by not publicizing their patronage, but now it seems appropriate to include them in my reminiscing:

Authors / Publishing World

  • Amy Arbus
  • Candace Bushnell
  • Michael Cunningham
  • Joan Didion
  • Peter Gethers
  • Robert Hughes
  • Sara Matthews
  • Kirk Russell
  • Leanne Shapton
  • Anna Wintour

 

Journalists / Columnists

  • Dan Abrams
  • Alan Colmes
  • Ann Coulter
  • David Gregory
  • Phil Griffin
  • Tom McDonald
  • Peggy Noonan
  • Frank Rich
  • Harry Smith
  • Leslie Stahl
  • Cal Thomas

 

Entertainers

 

Bono with Gisella and Cristiano

 

  • Charles Askegard
  • Noah Baumbach
  • Boatie Boatwright
  • Bono
  • Beth Broderick
  • Matthew Broderick
  • Josh Brolin
  • Kathleen Chalfant
  • Ethan Cohen
  • Joel Cohen
  • Carmen Consoli
  • Willem Dafoe
  • Claire Danes
  • Dana Delany
  • Susan Dey
  • Janet Dickinson
  • The New York Giants
  • William Goldman
  • Hazelle Goodman
  • Heather Graham
  • Joel Grey
  • Marvin Hamlish
  • Jill Hennessy
  • Celeste Holm
  • William Hurt
  • Marketa Irglova
  • Michael Keaton
  • Richard Kind
  • Michael Kors
  • Diane Lane
  • Jennifer Jason Leigh
  • Annie Liebovitz
  • Anne Meara
  • Marlene Matlin
  • Francess McDormand
  • Bette Midler
  • Nicole Mitchell
  • Jeffrey Dean Morgan
  • Mike Myers
  • Gianna Nannini
  • Mary Louise Parker
  • Sarah Jessica Parker
  • Bernadette Peters
  • Pink Martini
  • Jean Reno
  • Alan Rickman
  • Paul Rudd
  • Keri Russell
  • Paul Shaffer
  • Molly Shannon
  • Allen Shawn
  • Wallace Shawn
  • Phoebe Snow
  • Bernard Sofronski
  • Jerry Stiller
  • Julia Stiles
  • Hillary Swank
  • Billy Bob Thornton
  • Bob Vila
  • Bruce Vilanch
  • Frank Wood

 

Events

Occasionally we held events at Bellavitae, and three stand out:

 

The Zuni Cafe Cookbook

Judy Rodgers from San Francisco’s Zuni Café held a private dinner at Bellavitae and cooked some of her favorite dishes.  Her cookbook remains one of my favorites and I’ll always be grateful for her kind invitation to visit Zuni and cook for a few weeks before we opened Bellavitae.

Anna Tasca Lanza

A Night in Sicily was a memorable evening when Anna Tasca Lanza prepared dinner for guests and paired wines from the Regaleali estate with dishes that came from her various cookbooks.  We named one of the dishes from that event in her honor, and the dish remained our menu’s number-one bestseller until the day we closed.

Perhaps the most memorable event was in the spring of 2007 when we invited the Tre Bicchieri winners to Bellavitae after their annual tasting at the Puck Building.  We prepared a great Italian feast and they brought their award-winning wines – and what a night it was.  I don’t remember the menu now, but I do remember most of those who attended, and I’m not sure there has ever been a collection of such prestigious winemakers in one place outside of Italy that wasn’t some sort of promotion.  This was all about having fun.  I don’t think the following is a complete list of those who attended, but it sure is an impressive one:

 

 

We simply had wonderful food, award-winning and incomparable wines, and great camaraderie.  How Italian is that?

 

On Becoming a Chef

What I’ve learned most through our experience on Minetta Lane is how difficult it is to prepare simple food in a restaurant setting.  The quintessence of traditional Italian cooking is its simplicity, along with proper technique and using the highest quality ingredients.

Eating in the Italian style is about celebrating the garden rather than “sophisticated” manipulation in the kitchen.  In traditional Italian cuisine, there are no complex sauces to hide behind, no short cuts on technique, and nothing available to mask improper balance or inferior ingredients.  Nevertheless, after six years, the ability to perform this challenging task consistently became almost second nature to us and it’s a skill that I now proudly think of as proprietary; it is perhaps my greatest personal asset.

Grazie

There are too many individuals to thank for me to include in this post, and I hope to reach out to each person in the near future.  The many people who have come into my life because of Bellavitae touches my heart and will always be a part of my soul.  From staff to guests and to all of those listed above, I will be forever grateful.

I don’t think of Bellavitae as a destination, a restaurant, or even a way of life.  It’s simply a way of enjoying Italian food and wine.  So keep an eye on this blog, as I will continue to write about Italy’s greatest gift to the world.

So what happens next?  All I can say is look for Bellavitae in the future – and look in unexpected places.

 

Anna Tasca Lanza – Sicily’s Ambassador of Food and Wine

A helpful way to understand any society in history is to study its cuisine.  Sicily is especially fascinating due to influence from other civilizations throughout its history.  The Greeks, Phoenicians, Iberians, Romans, Byzantines, Arabs, Normans, and Angevins have all shaped Sicilian traditions, including cuisine.  It wasn’t until 1860 that Sicily became a part of the Kingdom of Italy. 

Over the centuries, Sicily has developed layers of interesting culinary traditions and unique flavor combinations.  If you begin to study Sicilian cuisine, you will undoubtedly encounter Marchesa Anna Tasca Lanza di Mazzarino, one of the important historians of Sicilian food and wine. 

She has written several important cookbooks, including The Flavors of Sicily, Herbs and Wild Greens from the Sicilian Countryside, The Heart of Sicily, and The Garden of Endangered Fruit.  In 1989 she began The World of Regaleali cooking school at the family’s estate, which is also home to famous vineyards, groves, and gardens. 

The Amazon.com review of her book, The Heart of Sicily, captures the spirit of Anna Tasca Lanza: 

Many cookbooks tempt, inform, and inspire.  A few capture the essence of a place, but rarely does a cookbook communicate the very soul of a place.  Anna Tasca Lanza’s telling of life at Regaleali, the vast estate that has belonged to her family since 1830, is so vivid that you feel her sitting next to you, talking and turning the pages of The Heart of Sicily as if it were a photo album. 

Tasca Lanza provides enough information about Sicily’s complex history and rich culture to help you understand the special nature of Regaleali and what her noble family – rich with barones, principessas, and contessas – has created.  Under their stewardship, this working estate has become an international cooking school.  It is also the place where Tasca Lanza pursues her passion for preserving the abundant culinary and cultural traditions of Sicily.  

The short video below, narrated by her daughter Fabrizia, gives a glimpse of the beautiful estate: 

In February 2005, after Bellavitae had been open less than two months, we asked Anna if we could feature her at a private dinner that would include recipes from her cookbooks paired with wines from the Regaleali estate.  We would call it A Night in Sicily.  Much to our delight, she enthusiastically accepted.  She publicized the event on the Regaleali website where it remains today

Anna Tasca Lanza, from The World of Regaleali, will be hosting a dinner at a new restaurant in New York.  She will be at Bellavitae on Tuesday, February 15, 2005.  There is a reception from 6:30-7:30 pm where you can meet this fabulous chef, and a dinner following at 7:30 pm.  The dinner will be a special five-course menu featuring Sicilian dishes prepared from Anna’s cookbooks and will include a tasting of Regaleali Tasca d’Almerita wines and olive oil.  A Night in Sicily will be a rare opportunity to meet and talk to a noted culinary authority and taste the flavors of Sicily here in the United States. 

The evening was delightful.  Guests enjoyed the food and wine pairings, as well as the interaction with one of Sicily’s food and wine authorities. 

One dish stood out that evening, and it was the cauliflower.  It was so impressive that we asked her if we could put it on our menu.  She said, “Certo!” [Of course!].  In order to acknowledge the recipe’s source properly, we call it Cavolfiore ‘Anna’ [Cauliflower ‘Anna’]. 

By far, the most popular dish on Bellavitae’s menu is Cavolfiore ‘Anna.’  Imagine, the item most ordered at an Italian trattoria is a vegetable! 

There are several Sicilian dishes that are similar to this recipe, including Pasta con i Broccoli Arriminati [Pasta – usually bucatini – with cauliflower, saffron, pine nuts, onion, currants, anchovies and toasted breadcrumbs].  But I suspect her recipe is based on a more well-known dish called Cavolfiore con l’Uvetta e i Pignoli [Cauliflower with Raisins and Pine Nuts].  Raisins and pine nuts in a dish divulge its Sicilian origin. 

Anna substitutes currants for the raisins and adds caramelized onions.  Genius.  The flavors work exceptionally well together, and the sensation in the palate is most pleasing.  The juxtaposition of contrasting flavors and textures create perfect balance.  No wonder it’s so popular! 

We thank Anna Tasca Lanza for her great work in researching, documenting, and promoting Sicilian culture, especially the region’s food and wine.  And we think of her every time someone orders Cavolfiore ‘Anna.’ 

 Here’s an excerpt from her biography that appears on the cooking school’s website

I was the first of four children. Welcomed with great joy but with one regret: I was not a boy. 

My family lived a very comfortable life.  My grandparents were very much present along with my parents, a brother and two sisters.  At the age of 15, I was sent to Lausanne to study at the école menagère Briamond, to learn how to be a good wife.  It was a revelation to me: I learned many things, from embroidery to French cooking.  When I came home after two years my father put me to the test immediately, asking me to prepare choux au fromage, which turned out perfectly (to my good fortune).  But then nothing happened; for years I never again touched a saucepan.  In the meantime I married Venceslao Lanza di Mazzarino, son of a great Sicilian noble family who was accustomed to eating international cuisine prepared by the cooks of the family, once called Monsù. 

Mine was not exactly what one would call the life of an average housewife.  I lived with Lanza in a huge palazzo in the center of Palermo, where nobody had any idea what went on in the kitchen and where the chef, every evening, questioned Count Fabrizio, my father-in-law, about what was wanted for the following day’s menu.  None of us, and above all my mother-in-law, the lady of the house, ever set foot in the kitchen.  These, as you can see, were other times! 

When Fabrizia was born, we moved into our own household, and this changed our relationship with food because I suddenly found myself facing the stove. Encouraged by my parents, I set up a little cooking school at Regaleali, the family vineyards, assisted, at first, by my sisters Costanza and Rosemarie.  I began to visit America, year after year, and got to know that extraordinary country where, with great freedom, everyone– young and old, women, men and children—is offered an opportunity in life.  I got to know the world of people who work with food, all so generous and encouraging about my Sicilian adventure.  In 1989 I had my first group of American students. 

Promoting my school and our wines, I did a little bit of everything, writing several Sicilian cookbooks in English (these had great success), giving talks and demonstrations at the Smithsonian, with James Beard, at Cipriani, at the Culinary Institute of America.   Perhaps the most moving thing I’ve done in my career was to give the Commencement speech at the Culinary Institute of America in Hyde Park, saluting and encouraging young Americans as they began their life as chefs. 

Just Published: Jay McInerney at the Wall Street Journal

Jay McInerney marks his debut as wine columnist for The Wall Street Journal today.  Jay is the author of seven novels, including his 1984 bestseller Bright Lights, Big City.  His wine columns for House & Garden are collected in Bacchus and Me and A Hedonist in the Cellar.  He will be writing the column alternately with Lettie Teague, the former Executive Editor of Food & Wine.  They also are co-blogging for the Journal’s On Wine.   

No one who knows Jay will be surprised to hear that he devotes his first column to rosé champagne, specifically Moët & Chandon’s 1990 Dom Pérignon Œnothèque Rosé.   

Until now, there’s never been an Œnothèque rosé, and collectors and geeks have been buzzing in anticipation of this one.  It is really spectacular, one of the greatest rosés I’ve ever tasted, richer and more voluptuous than the 2000.   

Dom Pérignon was a Benedictine monk and an important quality pioneer for champagne.  Contrary to popular belief, he did not discover the champagne method for making sparkling wines.  The first vintage of Dom Pérignon was 1921, released for sale in 1936, and, as Jay points out, probably the first prestige cuvée.   

If you have a chance to visit the winery you should.  It’s a magical place full of history.  I had the opportunity to take a private tour a few years ago and taste some wonderful vintages.   

Jay talks about “the chalk tunnels of the Moët & Chandon cellars deep under the town of Épernay.”  I snapped a picture of them while I was there:    

Say what you want about the French, but they make the world’s best sparkling wine.  I’ve always been tempted to add champagne to our all-Italian wine list, but never have.  Most restaurants in Italy will offer at least one champagne.   

Jay has a special way with words when telling a story.  Combine that with an acutely perceptive palate for food and wine, and you get a fascinating wine column.  It’s always fun and interesting when Jay visits Bellavitae.   

I’m sure he’ll occasionally write about Italian wines and I heartily recommend his new column in the Weekend Edition of The Wall Street Journal as well as the blog.

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