Category: On the Farm

“1855” Black Angus Premium Beef Featured at Ben E. Keith’s Food Show

Posted on by Jon

I will be a Featured Chef at this year’s Ben E. Keith Holiday Food Show on September 20th at the Albuquerque Convention Center.  I will be working with Tom Bertelle, the company’s expert Center-of-Plate Manager, and we will be featuring beef from JBS Swift Group’s “1855” Black Angus premium beef.  I will be preparing prime rib.

I had the opportunity to sample this beef a couple of weeks ago and tasted several cuts:  filet, bone-in New York, and bone-in rib-eye.  All were excellent with marvelous earthy meat flavor and perfect mouth-feel.  This meat stands up to just about any I have ever tasted.

“1855” sources its beef from two ranches located in my home state of Nebraska:

Wagonhammer Ranch

Jay Wolf

When you live in Wheeler County, Nebraska — where the cattle outnumber the people — you know you are in an area that understands beef.

The Waggonhammer Ranch is a family-owned and operated ranch that opened its gates in 1910.  The Black Angus cattle this ranch produces are highly sought after and known to be of the highest quality.  Besides the attention to detail, the toil, and the sweat, Jay Wolf, rancher-owner at Wagonhammer, believes it is something specific that helps the cattle he raises earn the reputation they do.

“This is rich cow-calf country.  We’ve been blessed with great grass,” says Wolf.  “We take good care of the land, and it takes good care of us.”

For more than a century, the Wagonhammer Ranch has proved that the best Angus beef starts with a strong passion and understanding for what it takes to produce it.   “My father was a Rancher, his father was a Rancher and I am carrying on all that they started.”

 

Pawnee Springs Ranch

Steve Boeshart

At the wheel of his pickup truck driving the perimeter of the Pawnee Springs Ranch, Ranch Manager Steve Boeshart shares his passion for producing quality Angus cattle.  “Ranching is a lifestyle.  It’s not a job – it’s a way of life.  And it is a lot of fun.”

When you raise the exceptional cattle that come from North Platte, Nebraska, everything on the ranch must be considered.

“We run and maintain everything ourselves to make it all more usable and more cattle friendly, it seems to be our second biggest challenge,” Boeshart says.  “Mother Nature is out first.  Trying to figure her out is always interesting.”

Boeshart, his family, and everyone involved in the Pawnee Springs operations are always trying to build a better herd by considering everything from feed to weaning to genetics.

It is a lot of work, but one Boeshart enjoys in every aspect. “It’s getting up in the morning and doing what we do. I enjoy it all.”

Nebraska’s Lush Grasses

These ranchers have a great respect for the industry and for their land.  They raise cattle in a very humane way, free from the stress of most industrialized mega cattle ranches where most of this country’s beef is raised.  The cattle are processed at a plant in Grand Island, Nebraska, just 20 miles north of where I grew up in Hastings.

Most folks think of beef in terms of a commodity, but believe me, as a Nebraska native and chef, I know better.  “1855” beef proves my point.

Come taste for yourself on September 20th.  Stop by and say hello and sample some of the best beef you’ll ever taste.

I’m proud to be serving this beef from two of Nebraska’s hardest-working and talented ranchers.  See for yourself in the video below (the default audio is off, so be sure to turn it on near the lower right corner!):

USDA Prime Black Angus Beef Foodservice & Retail | 1855 Beef

 

Why are Tomatoes so Tasteless?

Posted on by Jon

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Photo Courtesy Dorothy Stainbrook's Tomato Headquarters

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In a paper published by Science (subscription required), researchers give the answer:

It’s the redness.

The New York Times’ Gina Kolata explains:

The unexpected culprit is a gene mutation that occurred by chance and that was discovered by tomato breeders.  It was deliberately bred into almost all tomatoes because it conferred an advantage: It made them a uniform luscious scarlet when ripe.

The very gene that was inactivated by that mutation plays an important role in producing the sugar and aromas that are the essence of a fragrant, flavorful tomato.  And these findings provide a road map for plant breeders to make better-tasting, evenly red tomatoes.

The discovery “is one piece of the puzzle about why the modern tomato stinks,” said Harry Klee, a tomato researcher at the University of Florida in Gainesville who was not involved in the research.  “That mutation has been introduced into almost all modern tomatoes.  Now we can say that in trying to make the fruit prettier, they reduced some of the important compounds that are linked to flavor.”

Dr. Ann Powell, a lead author of the Science paper, said there is a way around the issue.  Heirloom tomatoes and many wild species do not have the uniform ripening mutation.  “The idea is to get the vegetable seed industry interested,” she said.

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Further Reading:

 

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On Sunday my Son Sold his Pig

Posted on by Jon

My son woke up every morning and fed his pigs, for six months. And after three months, he walked with the pigs, around in a circle, twice a day, to train the pig for the show. . .

All those unexpected obstacles did not faze my son. He stuck to what we practiced and did well at that. We showed his pigs three more times. Each time he got a little more confident. And I felt like my son was growing up, right in front of me. There is so much you can do to prepare for the world, but really, you grow only as you succeed or fail. You learn so much about yourself in that moment. . .

The guy who bought the pig is a guy who buys a lot of cattle from the Farmer. The guy who bought the pig is a farmer himself. He’ll eat the pork, for sure, but I’m sure he bought the pig because he believes in 4H and the county fair and what it teaches kids. And he believes we are part of the community, too: me and my sons and the Farmer.

We had 4H in Nebraska when I was a kid and I’m glad to hear it still plays a positive role not only in young people’s lives, but of entire communities.  Funny how sometimes we don’t appreciate things like 4H until we grow older.

Read the whole thing.

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San Marzano Tomatoes: Are you Getting the Real Deal?

Posted on by Jon

From GustiBlog:

First thing Edoardo [President of the San Marzano Consortium] said was: maximum 1% of tomatoes in America sold as San Marzano are real San Marzano. Then, when I told him I would put it in writing, he said, OK, let’s say 5%, to be on the safe side. It is still huge! Shocking! Absolutely SHOCKING!!! It means that at least 95% of the tomatoes that you find in the supermarkets and that make a reference to San Marzano on their label, are not San Marzano; that you are paying a mark up for a fake product. It does not mean the product is not good; it means that the product is NOT San Marzano and should not be promoted as such.

Read the whole thing.

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Plus this from Jason L. Morrow:

If you do not see the prominently displayed DOP label, you are not getting certified San Marzanos. This is true even if there is “Italian” written on the can, and you see words like: “San Marzano Region,” – “San Marzano Type,” – “San Marzano Style” – “Imported Italian San Marzanos” = all of which are true. They could have been grown in the Campania region, or even in the DOP designated origins (dell’Agro Solerno-Nocerino region – see Map), however, that still doesn’t make them DOP certified.

 And there is nothing wrong with being non-certified, if that’s what the consumer wants. San Marzano tomato “purists” won’t settle for anything that is not DOP certified and it’s all a matter of personal taste.

 [We are neutral on the matter and just try to present the information as balanced as we can. Personally, I would prefer them from my own garden].

 Regardless, buyers need to be aware of the language that is used as it can be a little misleading, even if what they have labeled is true. Other verbiage and adjectives used to label canned San Marzano tomatoes includes: Organic, Whole Peeled, Peeled Tomatoes, Product of Italy, Italian Style, All Natural Italian Style, and Prodotto in Italia to name most of them.

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How do you know if you’re getting the real deal?  The only way to know for certain is to look for the DOP label.  Yes, the certification process adds a premium to any Italian product, but perhaps it’s a small price in order to guarantee the quality you’re looking for.  It’s also wise to purchase through reliable importers like Gustiamo.  I always do.

Click on the links below for more information.  As we say in America: “Buyer Beware.”

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Further Reading:

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California Beef Council: Hiding Where Your Steak Comes From?

Posted on by Jon

Fifth generation rancher and blogger Megan Brown found herself in the midst of a public relations kerfuffle after posting an informative article last week.  Megan has a terrific writing style:  frank, amusing, informative.  I’ve enjoyed reading her posts for some time.  As Megan writes:

I feel like most of us are so far removed from our ag roots, and that makes me sad. I hope to offer a glimpse of what less than 2% of our population does for a living. Ag is not pretty. It is not easy. Agriculture – is dirty, hot, cold, bloody, messy, hard – I have no wish to sugar coat it for my readers. I want you to know what it is really like, I want to provide transparency.

Apparently the California Beef Council doesn’t like the transparency part, mainly for Megan’s photo essay of a recent beef slaughter on her farm. She was told that her pictures were too graphic for consumers to deal with.

The council’s PR person told her:

My concern is that pictures like the ones posted would turn people away from eating beef or meat in general. Yes, consumers are too far removed from agriculture and our practices, and it’s our duty to try to connect the consumer to modern production. However, I do think there may be a better way to convey to consumers how on-farm slaughter occurs and a better explanation of custom slaughter versus federally inspected slaughter facilities, etc.

The pictures are not only graphic to a consumer, but they also don’t explain the science-based practices and regulations that the industry follows — and the millions of dollars we spend each year to produce safe beef. All of these messages have proven to resonate very well with consumers.

I’m just concerned about the message consumers will get from the pictures. As an industry representative, I have to be prepared for any possible feedback from consumers, media or other beef producers that might read the blog.

Good Lord, meat comes from dead animals?

Agricultural journalist and rancher Andy Vance weighs in:

Are we so battle-scarred as an industry that we can no longer admit what it is we actually do for a living? When industry professionals are cautioned not to use terms like “slaughter” and a farmer can’t share pictures of the process with the consuming public, we have a bigger problem.

We produce meat for a living. It is a lifestyle, and it is a business. Let’s call it what it is and be proud to do so.

A former classmate of mine and Über-blogger Dan from Casual Kitchen wrote in Megan’s comment section:

It *is* an interesting post and there should be no controversy. As Tovar says, heaven forbid we figure out that meat comes from animals. The California Beef Council blew it, and their actions here make them look defensive, as if they’ve got something to hide. Guys, time to grow up, okay?

It’s interesting to point out that Oprah Winfrey’s mega audience applauds agricultural transparency.  Guest Michael Pollan was on her show last February titled “Do You Know Where Your Food Comes From?” and said this:

It’s all opaque. You go to the grocery store and the meat doesn’t even have bones anymore. It’s just shrink-wrapped protoplasm, and kids don’t even know that it comes from an animal and that the animal had to be killed in order to put it on your plate.

He went on to say that one should know how meat is produced.  So to get the inside scoop, Oprah sent Lisa Ling to Colorado, where Cargill — the biggest producer of ground beef in the world — gave her a rare inside look at a slaughterhouse to see just how meat is processed.

Most interesting are the video’s comments (491 of them so far), which clearly illustrate how the majority of Oprah’s audience did not “turn away from eating beef or meat in general” — about which the California Beef Council appears to be overwrought.

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Further Reading:

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On the menu: Costolette d’Agnello a Scottadito

Posted on by Jon
 
Courtesy Denver Magazine

 

Grilled Colorado Lamb Chops

In its March issue, Denver magazine had a terrific article on Colorado lamb:

“Is there a more innocent, idyllic creature than the spring lamb?  It’s been a symbol of purity and, by extension, rebirth for millennia — morphing from Aries, the first sign of the zodiac (today more commonly depicted in adult form as a ram), into a Judeo-Christian icon of sacrifice and resurrection that, in turn, manifests as an Easter supper centerpiece and Passover Seder ceremonial offering.”

I’ve tasted lamb from different parts of the U.S., as well as from Australia and New Zealand.  None has the flavor or the texture of Colorado’s grass-fed lamb.

The state saw its cattle and sheep industry take off in the late 1800s, when New Zealand and Australia controlled the international wool market.  However, these farmers fed and bred their sheep to optimize wool production.  In Colorado, the opposite was – and still is – true:  the focus is on meat quality, with wool being of secondary consideration.

The animals feed on bromegrass, orchardgrass, and perennial rye, all of which thrive in Colorado’s mountain climate.  In the winter they eat alfalfa hay.  And I love this quote:

“Oogie McGuire, owner of the Desert Weyr farm, says, “Terroir is not just a word that describes cheese or fine wine.”  If she’s right, then all those mountain springs and lush valleys in the marketing materials of Colorado lamb promoters aren’t just for show — they’re what’s for dinner. “

According to the American Lamb Board, domestic lamb is of higher quality because it “travels up to 10,000 fewer miles and about 30 days less than imported lamb.”  Another advantage:  the ribeye of an American lamb rib chop provides 38% more meat than Australia and New Zealand rib chops.

The quality is so good that we do as little as possible to interfere with this beautiful piece of meat.  We simply rub a garlic clove on the meat and place it on the hot grill, adding rosemary and some coarse salt.

By the way, scottadito translates to burn with heat [scottare] and finger [dito], or burned finger.  Pick up a hot Colorado lamb chop by its bone and you’ll understand.  We never frown on guests eating with their fingers, we encourage it!

Buona Pasqua!

Further Reading: 

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On the menu: Crostini al Carciofi e Pomodori Secchi

Posted on by Jon

Crostini with baby Artichokes and sun-dried Tomatoes

Crostini are a great way to get creative.  Just an ingredient or two on toasted or grilled bread.  How Italian is that?

In this dish, we spread sliced baby artichokes on crostini and top that with chopped sun-dried tomatoes for the perfect refreshment on a spring evening.

Both ingredients are grown by Francesco Vastola, whose land is located in Campania’s Alta Valle del Sele area near the Cilento National Park and the archaeological ruins at Paestum.  Francesco grows vegetables of the highest quality.  Combining innovation and tradition, he takes his just-picked vegetables and turns them into sott’olio using the excellent extra virgin olive oil from Cilento.

The baby artichokes we use are carciofi di Paestum, which are prized throughout Italy. They are famous for their small round heads, spineless stems, and beautiful purple color.  Picked only between February and May, they are unusually tender, but still firm to the bite.

Artichokes are notoriously difficult to preserve.  Their flavor is subtle.  If an artichoke of little flavor is combined with poor quality olive oil, the results are disappointing.

Valle del Sele’s artichokes were first mentioned in statistics published in 1811, when the region was known as the Kingdom of Naples.  Eventually, the artichoke of Castellammare became known as carciofo tondo di Paestum, or “round artichoke of Paestum.”

Francesco uses perfectly ripe, sun-drenched tomatoes for his pomodori secchi [sun-dried tomatoes].  He sprinkles them with salt and dries them in the fields.  Wine vinegar, oregano, capers, and chili peppers add balance and an extra punch of flavor.

When Francesco’s pomodori secchi are combined with his carciofi di Paestum, a perfect flavor balance emerges, showing that sometimes one plus one equals three.

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