Ricette Classiche: Pesto Genovese

Photo courtesy Regional Agency for the Promotion of Tourism in Liguria

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Pesto Genovese was one of our most popular signature dishes at Bellavitae.  People would travel across town just to experience this simple yet sublime celebration of Italy’s most seductive herb – basil.  Guests would frequently ask for the dish in the dead of winter!  Of course we would explain that they would need to wait until summer – when basil was at the height of its season – to enjoy the delectable sauce.

Pesto is a centuries-old recipe, where Mediterranean-grown basil is combined with a hint of delicate mountain-grown Vessalico garlic, to which is added Italy’s two most famous aged cheeses – Parmigiano-Reggiano and Pecorino.  Add some Italian pine nuts [pinoli] and the cleanest, sweetest sea salt from Cervia.  Trickle in the fruitiest, most sublime Taggiasca olive oil and presto! – Pesto Genovese.

So why are we talking about this summer dish in, well, the dead of winter?

Every January 17th — for the last four years — the Virtual Group of Italian Chefs (GVCI) promotes one authentic Italian recipe on its International Day of Italian Cuisines (IDIC).  We were honored to participate last year with Tagliatelle al Ragù Bolognese, another Bellavitae signature dish.  The previous years featured Pasta alla Carbonara and Risotto alla Milanese.  This year, of course, it’s Pesto Genovese.

The International Day of Italian Cuisines is born from a mission, as explained by Rosario Scarpato, GVCI Honorary President and IDIC 2011 Director:

“We certainly aim at educating worldwide consumers, but more than anything else, we want to protect their right to get what they pay for when going to eateries labeled as ‘Italian’; that is, authentic and quality Italian cuisine.”

So in celebratory spirit we again participate this year.  The weather outside may be cold, but think of the following as a virtual culinary vacation to the Italian Riviera.  Bookmark this page and return to it during the summer when basil is in full season.  Follow the detailed recipe within and discover why Pesto Genovese has remained one of Italy’s most famous dishes.

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Ricette Classiche: Brasato al Barolo

As autumn submits to winter, the frigid air outside suggests the perfect meal for a Sunday evening gathering – Brasato al Barolo.  Beef braises in the oven for hours, lazily simmering in red wine, and produces an aroma like no other.  It permeates the house with reminders of Piedmont, the magical alcove surrounded by an arc of the majestic snow-capped Alps.

Braising is a centuries-old but ingenious method of cooking that transforms a less desirable cut of meat into a succulent and flavorful delicacy that does wonders to warm the soul on a cold winter’s night.  In The French Laundry Cookbook, Thomas Keller says this about braising:

“When you’ve pulled your pot from the oven to regard your braise, to really see it, to smell it, you’ve connected yourself to generations and generations of people who have done the same thing for hundreds of years in exactly the same way.”

I couldn’t agree more.

Every major cuisine seems to have its method of braising meat in liquid; the French have Pièce de Boeuf Braisée / Boeuf à la Mode, in America we have Yankee Pot Roast, and in Italy it’s Brasato.  The Italian word is a derivative of brace, meaning “hot coals”.  In the past a heavy pot was buried in glowing coals where the meat would simmer for hours, with more embers placed upon the concave lid.

In Italy braising is used extensively – for a piece of meat or game, sometimes fish or fowl – the most common being beef.  It can be marinated beforehand, sometimes with herbs, spices, and/or vegetables.  Typically the meat is first browned (gilded) in fat or oil before simmering in liquid for three to five hours.  In Lombardy they add cinnamon, cloves, and bay leaves.  In Liguria they use dried mushrooms, some ham, and a mixture of wine and beef broth – and sometimes they substitute pork for beef.  In Piedmont, the classic recipe is Brasato al Barolo [braise of Barolo wine].

What gives brasato its delicious flavor and tenderness are two components in the roast one doesn’t usually associate with quality meat:  fat and sinew (connective tissue).  When these parts of the roast are heated to 150° they begin to melt, losing their toughness and dissolve into the muscle fibers, creating a velvety texture and delicious earthy flavor – a process that dry heat is unable to effectively achieve.

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Ricette Classiche: Purè di Patate

Courtesy Fir0002/Flagstaffotos

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Mashed Potatoes in the style of Bologna

Mashed potatoes may be the ultimate American comfort food, but Italians enjoy them, too!  The dish isn’t as popular as it is on this side of the Atlantic, but the recipe is similar to the American version.  We rarely made mashed potatoes at Bellavitae because the freshness and quality is very challenging in a restaurant environment.  However, they’re easy to make at home and wonderful to eat!

This simple recipe for purè di patate [purée of potatoes] is from Bologna, hence the grated Parmigiano-Reggiano cheese and pinch of nutmeg.

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Pasta all’Uova Fatta in Casa: The Joy and Satisfaction of Making Homemade Egg Pasta

Courtesy Pasta Agnesi Museum, Oneglia

Eating your own homemade fresh egg pasta is one of the most satisfying and enjoyable experiences of Italian cuisine.  Making your own fresh pasta is surprisingly easy and the result will likely exceed that which most Italian restaurants prepare.  Using the right ingredients and adhering to simple techniques will ensure perfect fresh pasta – at a fraction of the cost your supermarket charges.

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