I snapped these pictures this morning of the snow that had fallen overnight.  Note the aspens are beginning to turn.

Sure seems like we had a lot of rain this summer.  An indicator of heavy snowfall this winter?

I’m optimistic.

The post First Snow of the Season appeared first on BELLAVITÆ.

New Mexico is famous for its hot air balloons.  I’ve wanted to experience air travel this way since I moved to the state.  This past Saturday, I did just that – along with two of my favorite cousins who were visiting from Arizona.

The Rio Grande Gorge cuts through the high desert mesa west of Taos like a 650 foot-deep miniature Grand Canyon.  The famous Rio Grande River flows through the 70-mile canyon on its way to the Gulf of Mexico.  Gently gliding on the soft desert winds into the Gorge in our purple hot air balloon, with the Sangre de Cristo mountains as our backdrop, we had the premier hot air ballooning experience.

We flew with Pueblo Balloon Company of Taos – Ed was our pilot and Lisa was Crew Chief.  The company does a fine job and I have no hesitation recommending the company.  We loved every moment.

Images in the film are from yours truly and Taos photographer Jared Yankowy.  Music is by Blush.

The post Up Up and Away: Ballooning over Taos appeared first on BELLAVITÆ.

The editors of Forbes magazine “leafed” through the top fall foliage destinations to come up with 10 that they think are worth a look. Making the list was our own Enchanted Circle Scenic Byway; an 85-mile loop through the Southwest’s mountains, valleys and national forests that are currently covered in gorgeous fall foliage:

It’s not your run-of-the-mill autumn scene, but a trip on the Enchanted Circle Scenic Byway will change your perspective of what fall foliage looks like. Aspen trees explode in bold yellows; cottonwoods transform into gold and red; and purple cinquefoil adds a little flavor. September and October are the best months to roam this 85-mile trail around Taos, Red River and Eagle Nest, and the valleys, mountains and mesas make this the quintessential Southwestern drive.

I happened to take a leisurely Sunday drive today and snapped a few pictures of Taos Ski Valley’s autumn in all its glory (click on the pictures to enlarge).  It’s no wonder so many folks drive up here to experience this heaven on earth.  I have to say, until recently, autumn had been my least favorite season.  But moving here can change a man’s mind.  Poet Paul Laurence Dunbar explains why fall has never been about death and dying, but the highest time of living!

Merry Autumn by Paul Laurence Dunbar

It’s all a farce,—these tales they tell
About the breezes sighing,
And moans astir o’er field and dell,
Because the year is dying.

Such principles are most absurd,—
I care not who first taught ’em;
There’s nothing known to beast or bird
To make a solemn autumn.

In solemn times, when grief holds sway
With countenance distressing,
You’ll note the more of black and gray
Will then be used in dressing.

Now purple tints are all around;
The sky is blue and mellow;
And e’en the grasses turn the ground
From modest green to yellow.

The seed burs all with laughter crack
On featherweed and jimson;
And leaves that should be dressed in black
Are all decked out in crimson.

A butterfly goes winging by;
A singing bird comes after;
And Nature, all from earth to sky,
Is bubbling o’er with laughter.

The ripples wimple on the rills,
Like sparkling little lasses;
The sunlight runs along the hills,
And laughs among the grasses.

The earth is just so full of fun
It really can’t contain it;
And streams of mirth so freely run
The heavens seem to rain it.

Don’t talk to me of solemn days
In autumn’s time of splendor,
Because the sun shows fewer rays,
And these grow slant and slender.

Why, it’s the climax of the year,—
The highest time of living!—
Till naturally its bursting cheer
Just melts into thanksgiving.

The post Forbes: 10 Must-See Fall Foliage Destinations appeared first on BELLAVITÆ.

Oktoberfrest is a 16-day festival held each year in Munich, Bavaria, Germany.  It runs from late September to the first weekend in October.  Oktoberfest is one of Germany’s most famous events and is considered the world’s largest fair, with more than 5 million people attending every year.  Countless communities across the world also celebrate this beer festival, and Taos Ski Valley is no exception!  Our celebration is Saturday, September 15th.

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History of Oktoberfest

Crown Prince Ludwig, who later became King, married Princess Terese of Saxe-Hildburghausen on October 12, 1810.  Everyone in Munich was invited to the festivities held on the fields at the city gates.  The fields were  named Theresienwiese (“Theresa’s Meadow”) in honor of the Princess.  The locals refer to the field as Wies’n.

Horse races in the presence of the Royal Family marked the event’s closing that was celebrated as a festival for the whole of Bavaria.  The decision to repeat the horse races in the subsequent year gave rise to the tradition of the Oktoberfest.

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Two Classic Dishes

Along with the ubiquitous bratwurst, pretzels, and (of course) beer, there are two other dishes that abound during Oktoberfest season:  Obatzda (cheese and beer dip on rye bread) and Datschi (fruit-topped cake).

I turned to The Blonde Bear Tavern’s Consulting Chef, Andreas Dirnagl,  for these classic recipes (klassischen Rezepten).  Andreas’s parents (pictured above) are Bavarian natives, who moved to the United States shortly after their 1957 marriage.

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Obatzda

Chef Andreas gives us background:

A Bavarian specialty in the beer gardens, Obatzda is really more of a spread than a dip. Use a good hearty rye or dark bread (sliced works best).  Place a slice of bread on a plate with a scoop of the spread on top.  Garnish with onion, chive, and paprika.  You can also serve radishes with salt and butter on the side.  Yum!

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Ingredients:

• 1 pound Camembert (or Brie) cheese, coarsely chopped
• 6 ounces cream cheese (or pungent Romadur), softened
• 1/4 cup unsalted butter, cut into small pieces
• 1/4 cup dark German ale
• 3 cloves roasted garlic
• 1 teaspoon caraway seeds
• 1 pinch sweet paprika
• salt and freshly-ground pepper
• 1/4 cup Spanish onions, finely diced
• 1 loaf rye or French bread

Preparing Obatzda

1. Lightly toast the caraway seeds in a dry pan
2. Place garlic in a small baking dish, drizzle lightly with olive oil, and season with salt.  Pour a bit of water in the bottom of the dish, cover tightly with foil, and roast in 375° oven for about an hour.
3. Place the Camembert in a medium bowl, add the cream cheese, butter, ale, garlic, and caraway seeds
4. Add paprika, salt and pepper to taste; beat well to combine
5. Take about 2/3 of the onions and sauté in olive oil until golden
6. In a strainer, rinse the remaining raw onions under cold water; drain and transfer to a clean kitchen towel, squeezing out the liquid.  Combine with sautéed onions
7. Fold onion mixture into the cheese mixture
8. Cover and refrigerate at least 2 hours, or up to 4 days.

Note:  For a more authentic texture, set aside about 1/3 of the Camembert in a small dice and then fold it into the finished product.  You may also use a bit of the rind.

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Datschi

Datschi (pronounced dah-chi) is a Bavarian word that means any of a variety of fruit-topped cake.   Again, Chef Andreas gives us background:

Commonality is that the dough is pressed into a straight sided pan (Datschi comes from the verb detschen, which means “to smoosh”).  There is no rim built up on the edges of the dough, and it is topped with some form of fresh fruit.  Streusel topping is optional.  The dessert is served simply on a small plate, usually topped with a dollop of whipped cream.

These cakes are a mainstay of every Bavarian bakery and major open air festival, as they can be made in big sheets.  Fruit topping is variable, although plum is the most common.  If you want authenticity, you need Italian plums.  Remember in baking – if it eats sour, it bakes sweet and vice versa.  Italian plums look kind of like plum tomatoes (as opposed to regular plums, which are round) and are quite sour if you eat them raw.  When you bake them they become sweet / sour.

This recipe is from my mom, Inge, and is quite common in the Bavarian neighborhood where she grew up:

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Ingredients:

For the Cake

• 4 1/2 cups all-purpose flour, sifted
• 1 1/2 cups sugar
• 1 tablespoon vanilla extract
• 1 tablespoon baking powder
• 3 sticks unsalted butter, cubed at room temperature
• 2 eggs
• 1 1/2 tablespoons dark rum
• about 40 Italian plums, pitted and quartered

For the Optional Streusel

• 1 1/4 cups all-purpose flour
• 3/4 cups sugar
• 2 teaspoons vanilla extract
• 1/2 teaspoon cinnamon
• 1 stick unsalted butter, melted

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Preparing Datschi

1. Mix all the dry ingredients in the bowl of a food processor.  Blend 30 seconds.
2. Add the cubed butter and process until crumbly.
3. Combine eggs, vanilla, and rum (it will look slightly curdled).  Add to the food processor bowl and process until the dough just begins to form (it will look and feel like soft sugar cookie dough).
4. Turn out and roll the dough, forming a thick log the length of a 26″ by 18″ “half sheet” pan.  Place down the center of the pan and use your hands and knuckles to push dough into all corners and edges of the pan.  It should be flat, with no “rim” on the sides.
5. Place the fruit on top in a decorative, repetitive pattern (with an eye towards cutting servings into squares or rectangles.
6. Bake in preheated 375 degree oven until the dough rises slightly between the fruit slices and the fruit has softened and begins to brown slightly, about 30 minutes.
7. If not topping with the optional streusel, sprinkle with cinnamon sugar after about 10 minutes of baking.

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For optional streusel:

1. Combine all ingredients except butter, and mix well.
2. Drizzle with butter, and using fingertips, combine to form streusel.
3. Sprinkle over fruit topping before baking.

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Variations:

If using apples, use a tart variety.  Peel, core, and slice into about 1/2″ wedges.  You can also use about a 1/4 inch layer of apricot or raspberry jam or jelly if you have no fruit on hand.  If using jam or jelly topping, then streusel is no longer optional – rather double the streusel recipe and completely cover the jam/ jelly topping with streusel before baking.

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Oktoberfest at Taos Ski Valley

This year looks to be the biggest and best Oktoberfest in Taos Ski Valley.  And it’s FREE fun for all ages.

The day will feature an authentic Schuplatter band and dancers, German beer and food, activities for kids, Brat eating contest, Yodeling contest, Alpenhorn blowing contests, and more.

Our Village stores will be offering pre-season blowout prices on ski gear and sporting apparel.

• Festival Times: 11am to 6pm
• Christof Brownell 11am – 6pm
• Schuplatter Band 2pm – 6pm
• Comedy time with Petey Tang – 2pm
• Bouncy Castle, face painting and Family fun

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*A Note about the Black and White Photo Above:

At my request, Andreas sent me an Oktoberfest picture with his mom (whose Datschi recipe she graciously shared) and dad (who is now deceased).  He sent the following accompanying message, which I think bears repeating:

The year was 1957 and Mom was 28.  This is Oktoberfest as it used to be. Mom is on the left with my dad immediately behind her.  They would have been married all of 4 months at this point. Behind my dad is my grandfather (mom’s dad).  The woman on the right is my Aunt Maria and the man with his arm around her shoulder is her husband, my Uncle Siegried (my dad’s brother).  The other man is a stranger who photo bombed the picture.

Mom says that she and my Aunt went for a walk to see the sights at Oktoberfest and the men stayed back in the tent to save the seats.  By the time they got back, the men were ripped and as she passed by to sit down my uncle grabbed her beret and wore it for the picture.

The post Oktoberfest 2012: Two Classic Recipes appeared first on BELLAVITÆ.

Italy’s most famous baked pasta is lasagne!  Historians have traced the dish back to at least Roman times, believing its name derives from the Latin lasania [cooking pot], and possibly to ancient Greece.

Lasagne has been widely adopted throughout Italy, with each region placing its own imprimatur on the dish.  In Bologna, lasagne is made with fresh spinach pasta and layered with classic ragù alla Bolognese.  In Liguria, lasagne is made with pesto (although sometimes the boiled pasta sheets are simply tossed with pesto [Genoa’s mandilli de sæa al pesto]).  Neapolitans layer tomato sauce and mozzarella between the pasta sheets, and Calabrians prefer ricotta salata. In Piedmont, I’ve had lasagne with mushrooms and ham; and lasagne with artichokes is, well, sublime.

This dish takes quite a bit of time to prepare, but in our view it’s worth the effort.  You can make the ragù alla Bolognese ahead of time.  Also, once fully assembled, you can hold lasagne verdi al forno in the refrigerator for two full days if tightly sealed with plastic wrap.  Just allow it to return to room temperature before baking.

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Ingredients:

Lasagne Verdi al Forno is the culmination of several recipes used in Emilia-Romagna that we have previously featured on this site.  You will need them in order to prepare this dish.  Refer to the recipes by clicking on the associated links below (each has a “Print Friendly” button at the bottom if you wish to print in an easier-to-read format):

• 2 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil or cooking spray
• Sea salt
• 1 recipe of 2-egg spinach pasta.  Roll the pasta as thin as you can and keep the pasta sheets as wide as they come from the pasta machine rollers.  Cut into 10” lengths.  If rolling by hand, cut into sheets 4 ½” by 10” (see Pasta Verde:  Making Your Own Spinach Pasta and Pasta all’Uova Fatta in Casa:  The Joy and Satisfaction of Making Homemade Egg Pasta)
• 1 recipe ragù alla Bolognese (see Ricette Classiche:  Ragù alla Bolognese)
• 1 recipe salsa balsamella, made to the consistency of sour cream (see You say Béchamel, I say Balsamella)
• 1 cup freshly-grated parmigiano-reggiano (or more to taste)

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Making Lasagne Verdi al Forno:

1. Preheat the oven to 350°F.  Lightly oil or spray a 9” x 12” glass or ceramic baking dish and set aside.
2. Set a large bowl of salted ice water near the stove, and lay some clean dry towels on the counter.  Bring 4 quarts of water to a rapid boil, add 1 tablespoon of salt.
3. When the water returns to a boil, slip in two pasta sheets at a time until they float to the surface, about 10 seconds.  Immediately remove the pasta sheets with a slotted spoon and plunge into the bowl of ice water in order to stop further cooking.  When cooled, remove the pasta sheets from the ice water and rinse under cold running water, rubbing them delicately.  Squeeze each pasta sheet gently, and then spread it flat on the towel.
4. Assemble the lasagne
   1. Line the bottom of the glass baking pan with a single layer of pasta sheets, trimming any excess with a paring knife.  Patch where necessary, but do not overlap more than ¼ of an inch.
   2. Spread evenly 1 cup of the ragù over the pasta
   3. Sprinkle lightly with grated parmigiano-reggiano
   4. Add another layer of pasta
   5. Spread evenly 1 cup of the salsa balsamella, then sprinkle lightly with grated parmigiano-reggiano
   6. Repeat these layers so that you end up with 3 layers of ragù and 2 of salsa balsamella, topping with the ragù
   7. Sprinkle remaining parmigiano-reggiano on top
5. Cover dish with oiled or sprayed foil and place on the upper middle rack of the oven and bake for 20 – 25 minutes.
6. Adjust the oven temperature to 500°F, remove the foil, and bake for another 5 – 7 minutes, or until the lasagne is bubbling around the edges and browned on top.  Do not overcook.
7. Allow the lasagne to rest for 10 minutes before cutting and serving.

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Tips for success:

• The layers, if taking a side-view of the dish, should be as follows:
  • TOP
  • Parmigiano-reggiano
  • Ragù
  • Salsa balsamella
  • Pasta
  • Parmigiano-reggiano
  • Ragù
  • Pasta
  • Parmigiano-reggiano
  • Salsa balsamella
  • Pasta
  • Parmigiano-reggiano
  • Ragù
  • Pasta
  • BOTTOM

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Understanding:

• The washing, wringing, and drying of the pasta sheets is a bit of trouble, but is necessary.
  • You only slightly pre-cook the pasta before assembling.  If the pasta is over-boiled (or not plunged into ice water to prevent further cooking), it will become mushy when baked.
  • Rinsing the pasta after the cold plunge washes away any excess starch that otherwise will act as glue when you lay the sheets on the towels, preventing their clean removal when ready to assemble the dish.
• This recipe calls for baking at two different temperatures.  The lower-temperature with a foil cover ensures the entire dish warms thoroughly.  The higher-temperature uncovered baking period promotes a crispy topping.

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Related:

• Pasta Verde: Making Your Own Spinach Pasta
• Pasta all’Uova Fatta in Casa:  The Joy and Satisfaction of Making Homemade Egg Pasta
• Ricette Classiche: Ragù alla Bolognese
• You say Béchamel, I say Balsamella

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The post Ricette Classiche: Lasagne Verdi al Forno appeared first on BELLAVITÆ.

Tagliatelle al Ragù alla Bolognese [Fresh Egg Pasta Ribbons with Meat Sauce in the style of Bologna] was our most popular pasta dish at Bellavitae.  It appeared on the menu when we opened the brick oven every autumn, and lasted into the cold winter months when the oven’s open fire was roaring to keep everything in the restaurant toasty.  There is nothing more satisfying in the dead of winter than a comforting bowl of homemade egg pasta with beef ragù.

Ragù alla Bolognese is a centuries-old recipe, where beef is combined with a perfect balance of chopped vegetables and left to sputter for hours over low heat, rendering it succulent and deeply flavored.  I know of nothing that so easily warms the soul.

This ragù is very easy to make; the only challenge is that of time.  It freezes beautifully or you can hold it in the refrigerator for at least three days.  Ours is a most authentic recipe and once you try it you’ll understand why any imitation or variation (some say bastardization) is simply not acceptable – and why the original became so famous.

Emilia-Romagna – The Richest Gastronomic Region in Italy

Ragù alla Bolognese traces its beginnings to Bologna, where Europe’s first law university was founded in 1119; hence the city’s nickname La Dotta [the Learned].  Bologna lies in the middle of Emilia-Romagna, through which three ancient throughways converge:  The via Romanea Francigena, the via Pedemontana, and the via Emilia.  Throughout history these roads attracted settlers and rulers from afar – Etruscans, Romans, Lombards, and Byzantines; pilgrims from the north, the Farnese from Rome; and Bourbons from Naples and Austria.  During the 16^th Century, Pope Paul III established his nephew in Parma and the region became the site of frequent ceremonial visits that included banquets and festivities overseen by cooks of international reputation.

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The land of Emilia-Romagna is well-suited to cultivation, and the region is a great producer of tomatoes, sugar beets, peas, and beans.  But the region is best known for its famous cured pork – the prosciutto of Parma and culatello of Zibello.  The most renowned aged cheese on earth, of course, is Parmigiano-Reggiano.  And the world’s most luxurious vinegar comes from Modena – balsamico [balsamic].  This abundance of gastronomic delights has earned Bologna its other Italian nickname:  La Grassa [the Fat].  Pavel Muratov, the Russian art historian explains:

“In Bologna there is something light that cheers the eye, agreeably not too complicated.  It is a city of contented, healthy people.  The fattest granaries [grain storehouses] and vineyards of Italy surround it, producing a renowned wine.  No other place can compare with Bologna for the abundance, variety, and good price of every possible and imaginable foodstuff, and it is no accident that the Italians call it ‘Bologna la Grassa.’”

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The History of Ragù alla Bolognese

Ragù in Emilia-Romagna has been traced back to the 16^th century, when it was enjoyed by wealthy courts of noble families.  The origins are related to the French ragôut, a noun derived from the verb ragôuter, which means to “wake up”, “whet the appetite”, or “give more taste”.  Ragôut, of course, is a hearty French stew of meat, fish, game, or vegetables, cut into small pieces and cooked very slowly in some fat over low heat.

Ragù alla Bolognese has evolved – like all classic dishes – not just over decades or generations, but over the centuries.  For example, original versions of the dish didn’t include tomatoes.  Tomatoes weren’t known or used in Italy until later in the 16^th century.  Pork is included in some recipes, but the common usage of it likely occurred after World War II, when the meat became more affordable.  Likewise, butter was likely a latter addition.  There are no herbs or spices in Ragù alla Bolognese (and certainly never garlic!), although you frequently see the addition of Bay leaves.

The Accademia Italiana della Cucina [Italian Academy of Cuisine] was formed in 1953 to record and declare official the classic recipes of regional Italian cooking.  In its encyclopedia of over 2,000 dishes is Ragù alla Bolognese.  The challenge of reducing a classic recipe to one official version is exceedingly difficult.  Can you imagine if someone asked you to describe the authentic recipe for American fried chicken?  Or apple pie?  It’s no wonder the Accademia took 38 years to agree on the official recipe for Ragù alla Bolognese.  There are many recipes for the dish in and around Bologna.  Ask ten different cooks in the area what the authentic recipe is and you’ll get ten different answers – all of them, of course, are authentic.

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Bellavitae’s Recipe

We base our recipe largely on that of the Simili sisters, who have published three Italian cookbooks (alas, none has been translated into English).  They began working at the family bakery, located in Bologna, in 1946.  Stefano Bonilli, the Bolognese-born director and founder of Gambero Rosso, had this to say about the bakery:

“More than a business, the bakery that the Simili Sisters ran in Via San Felice and then in Via Frassinago was a meeting point for all of Bologna’s gourmets.”

In 1986 the sisters held cooking courses at the Hotel Milano Excelsior di Bologna and three years later they opened the Scuola di Cucina della Sorelle Simili [The Simili Sisters’ School of Cooking], which acquired worldwide acclaim.  The school was closed during the summer of 2001.

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Ragù alla Bolognese Dishes

The most popular dishes that use this ragù include:

• Fresh egg pasta
  • The most perfect is, of course, Tagliatelle
  • Tortellini is also well-suited
• Dried pasta
  • Rigatoni
  • Conchiglie
  • Fusilli
  • With all due respect to my friends in the United Kingdom, spaghetti is not appropriate with this meat sauce!
• Lasagne Verdi al Forno [Baked Spinach Lasagne]
• Polenta alla Bolognese [Baked Polenta with Bolognese Meat Sauce]
• Crespelle alla Bolognese [Italian-style Crêpes with Bolognese Meat Sauce]
• Risotto alla Bolognese [Risotto with Bolognese Meat Sauce]

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The Ingredients (for six servings)

For the soffritto:

• 3 tablespoons unsalted butter
• 1 tablespoon extra virgin olive oil
• 2 – 3 slices of Prosciutto di Parma or Pancetta, finely chopped (approx 3 oz)
• 1 small yellow onion, peeled and finely chopped
• 2 ribs celery, finely chopped
• 2 – 3 Bay leaves – optional
• 2 carrots, peeled and finely chopped
• 2 chicken livers, finely chopped (approx 3 oz) – optional

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For the meat sauce:

• 1 ½ lbs ground chuck
• 1 cup milk, hot
• ½ cup dry white wine
• 1 cup brodo di carne [beef broth]
• 1 28-oz can puréed Italian plum tomatoes
• ¼ teaspoon (or to taste) nutmeg, preferably freshly-grated
• Sea salt
• Freshly-ground black pepper

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A note on the ingredients:

• Butter and olive oil.  Use enough to coat the bottom of the skillet, keeping the 3-to-1 ratio
• Bay leaves.  Most traditional recipes call for no herbs (or spices or garlic, for that matter), but I like the richness and depth Bay leaves impart in this recipe.  I prefer imported Bay leaves to the stronger-flavored and oilier California herb.
• Chicken livers.  This is marked optional in the recipe, but I would encourage you to use it.  After a long braise, the sauce will not take on a chicken liver flavor, but rather will produce an additional layer of flavor complexity, or as some would say, umami.  In their classic Italian cookbook, Sfida al Matterello, the Simili sisters, Valeria and Margherita, say this:

“In the past, chicken giblets were included in ragù as well:  heart, kidney, and liver; ingredients with a strong flavor that are no longer liked by the modern palate – what a pity!  Of these ingredients only the liver has survived; please don’t eliminate it.  If you don’t like it, use less, just a half, but include it because in such a small quantity you will not detect it but it really fills out the flavor by giving it more body.”

It should be no surprise that giblets are frequently used in this recipe; it is also common to do so in French ragoûts, such as the financière.  It’s usually impossible to buy only two chicken livers at the supermarket, but you can always take the giblets from a whole chicken and freeze them, or alternatively, buy a carton of chicken livers, divide and freeze them in sealable plastic bags.

• Ground Chuck.  Use 80 / 20% ground chuck, which will provide the optimum flavor and texture profile for this recipe.  Many recipes call for the use of shredded beef, but over the years ground beef has become much more common.  For you traditionalists, you can use shredded braised beef.  In the recipe registered by the Accademia, thin skirt [cartella] is specified, which is the muscle that separates the lungs from the stomach.  However, a more suitable cut is the flank brisket [finta cartella (pancia)], which has more fat and requires longer cooking.
• Milk.  Use whole milk for this recipe, not reduced fat or skim.  You will be disappointed with the results, otherwise.
• Beef broth.  Don’t use beef stock in this recipe.  I prefer to use organic beef broth.
• Canned tomatoes.  I prefer Italian San Marzano, which have an amazingly fresh flavor.  The recipe calls for pureed, but you can use crushed tomatoes, or whole tomatoes and dice them yourself (or run them through a food mill).  This is a texture issue – use your personal preference.

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Preparing Ragù alla Bolognese

For the soffritto:

1. Heat the oil and butter in a large, deep, heavy pot over medium heat.  When hot, add the chopped onions and prosciutto, sauté until the onions are soft and translucent, but not browned, about five minutes.
2. When the onion has clarified, add the celery and Bay leaves.  About a minute later, add the carrot and cook for three minutes more, stirring occasionally.
3. Meanwhile, clean and prepare the chicken livers.  Remove any trace of the bitter-tasting green bile.  Crush the livers using the fat end of the knife blade in order to separate the nerve fibers from the flesh.  After the nerve fibers have been separated, chop the livers fine.
4. Push the soffritto to the perimeter of the pan with a wooden spoon.  Place the chopped chicken livers in the center of the pan and cook, flattening and stirring continuously until the meat begins to change color.  As it darkens, bring the soffritto back to the middle of the pan and stir everything together for a moment.

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For the meat sauce:

1. Combine the tomatoes and beef broth in a sauce pan and heat over medium heat for later use.
2. Separate the ground chuck into thirds.  Again, push the soffritto and livers to the perimeter of the pan.  Add one third of the ground chuck to the center of the pan and cook, flattening and stirring continuously until the meat begins to change color.  While still somewhat pink, push this third of the ground chuck to the perimeter.  Repeat this procedure with the second and third portions of the ground chuck.  Bring the soffritto back to the middle of the pan and stir everything together for a moment.
3. Meanwhile, heat the milk in the microwave or a small saucepan.  Don’t let it reach the boiling point, but heat until small bubbles appear around the perimeter of the container.
4. Add the hot milk in two or three doses and let it simmer while stirring consistently until it has completely bubbled away, about 10 – 15 minutes.  Stir in the nutmeg.
5. Bring the meat mixture into the center of the pan, leaving the perimeter clear.  Slowly add a third of the wine to the cleared perimeter of the pan.  When the wine has fully heated, repeat with the second portion and then the third.  Stir the mixture together in the pan and let simmer until the wine has fully evaporated; i.e., when you can no longer detect its aroma, about 10 – 15 minutes.
6. Season with salt and freshly-ground pepper.
7. Add the hot tomatoes and beef broth.
8. After the sauce begins to boil, reduce heat to the laziest of simmers – a bubble or two periodically should reach the surface.  Simmer at this temperature with the pot uncovered for at least three hours, stirring occasionally.  Taste for salt and pepper, adjust accordingly.
9. Combine with the pasta, sprinkle with grated Parmigiano-Reggiano and serve immediately.

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Tips for Success

• Use gentle heat when preparing the ingredients.  Anything over medium will tend to over-brown the surface, which will be magnified after the long simmering.
• Don’t sauté the chicken livers or beef too long or they will dry out.  No amount of simmering in the sauce will revive the dried meat.
• If you find the moving of ingredients around in the pot is too burdensome, complete these steps in a separate pan.  I do this to save on dishwashing!  Just be sure to complete the final simmer in a tall pot in order to reduce evaporation.
• The secret to this ragù is to have an optimal amount of liquid left in the sauce at the end of the long simmering period; i.e., not too runny, but not too dry.  Many recipes suggest that if the sauce becomes too dry before its allotted simmering time to add more beef broth.  I prefer to simply place a cover on the pot at this point rather than dilute the sauce.

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Understanding

• Sauté the chicken liver away from the other vegetables because it coagulates immediately when heated.  If it touches a hot vegetable, it will cling to it, rather than later dispersing throughout the sauce.  Care is taken while separating the livers’ nerve fibers so the ingredient will integrate well with the others.
• Italian cooking utilizes beef broth, which is typically made by braising meat, bones, and vegetables.  It is not stock, as is used in French and American cooking.  Thus it imparts a softer flavor to dishes, adding hints of flavor, but always taking a back seat to the other ingredients.
• Using a leaner cut of beef will render the sauce less sweet and succulent, creating disappointment in both flavor and texture.
• Salt is added to the meat after it is browned, so as not to encourage release of liquid before it cooks, which would render the meat dry.
• The meat is sautéd briefly only to enhance flavor, it should not be browned.  It’s cooked at a relatively low temperature to prevent drying (see Mastering the Techniques of Sautéing and Browning).  Once too much liquid is released from the meat, the texture will become rubbery, a process that cannot be reversed.
• Milk is added to the meat before the acidic ingredients (white wine and tomatoes) to protect them from “cooking” the meat and inflicting a inferior texture.  The milk also helps to tenderize the meat and adds a sweet, appealing flavor.
• Liquids that are added to the meat are first brought to a hot temperature.  Dramatically changing the meat’s temperature by adding cold liquids will alter the proteins’ structure, to the detriment of both flavor and texture.

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Related:

• Pasta all’Uova Fatta in Casa: The Joy and Satisfaction of Making Homemade Egg Pasta
• The Italian Flavor Base: Battuto, Soffritto, Trito
• Mastering the Techniques of Sautéing and Browning
• Ricette Classiche:  Lasagne Verdi al Forno

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Further Reading:

• The Official Dish of the IDIC 2010: Tagliatelle al ragù Bolognese
• The Italian Academy of Cuisine:  La Cucina, The Regional Cooking of Italy
• Official Site:  Bologna
• Official Site:  Emilia-Romagna

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Dating back to the 16th Century, Broccolo Romanesco — which is closely related to cauliflower — belongs to the Brassicaceae family of flowering plants and is part of the mustard genus.  Thomas Jefferson planted it at his Monticello estate in the 1780s using Italian seeds.  However, the vegetable didn’t really catch on in America until the 20th century.

Almost all parts of this species have been developed for food, including the root (rutabaga, turnips), stems (kohlrabi), leaves (cabbage, brussels sprouts), flowers (cauliflower, broccoli), and seeds (many, including mustard seed, rapeseed or canola oil).

Broccolo Romanesco is an unusual vegetable that comes into season during the late fall and lasts through winter.  Rich in vitamins and fiber, it is an interesting alternative to broccoli and cauliflower.  Give it a try — just don’t over cook it!

Follow the links below for more information and some terrific recipes:

• Seriously Italian: Broccoli Romanesco by Gina DePalma
• Broccolo Romanesco by Letizia Mattiacci
• Redhead Romanesco by Sam Alberts
• Broccolo Romanesco, Roman Cauliflower with Pasta Recipe by Sara Rosso
• Pasta e Broccoli by Rachel Alice Roddy
• Romanesco Broccoli on facebook

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Josh Ozersky explains.

Emily Matras offers hunting tips and information on truffle festivals.

The post White Truffles: Why They’re Worth $2,000 a Pound appeared first on BELLAVITÆ.